Lafayette County Master Gardeners: “Beginning Composting”

A Practical Guide to Turning Waste into Garden Gold

Composting is one of the most rewarding habits a gardener can develop. By transforming kitchen scraps and yard debris into nutrient-rich humus, you reduce household waste, improve soil structure, and create a sustainable cycle of fertility in your own backyard. Whether you maintain a large vegetable plot or a few raised beds, learning to compost effectively will strengthen your soil and your gardening confidence.

This guide walks you through getting started, choosing the right compost receptacle, maintaining your pile, avoiding common mistakes, and knowing when your compost is ready to use.

Why Compost?
Compost improves soil in three critical ways:

Structure: It loosens heavy clay soils and helps sandy soils retain moisture.
Nutrition: It adds slow-release nutrients essential for plant growth.
Biology: It feeds beneficial microorganisms that support root health.

Rather than sending organic waste to a landfill—where it decomposes anaerobically and produces methane—composting allows materials to break down aerobically, creating a stable, earthy soil amendment.

Getting Started: The Basics
At its core, composting is the controlled decomposition of organic materials. To succeed, you need four key ingredients:

Greens (Nitrogen-rich materials)
o Fruit and vegetable scraps
o Coffee grounds
o Fresh grass clippings
o Plant trimmings
Browns (Carbon-rich materials)
o Dry leaves
o Straw
o Shredded newspaper
o Cardboard
o Wood chips
Air (Oxygen)
Microorganisms require oxygen to break down materials efficiently.
Moisture
The pile should be damp like a wrung-out sponge.

A good rule of thumb is to aim for roughly 2–3 parts browns to 1-part greens by volume. This balance prevents odor and promotes steady decomposition.

Choosing the Right Compost Receptacle
Your compost setup depends on space, climate, and aesthetic preferences. Fortunately, there are options for every situation.

Open Pile
The simplest method: designate a corner of your yard and start piling organic matter.
Best for: Large properties with ample space.
Pros: No cost, easy to expand.
Cons: Less tidy, may attract pests if not managed properly.
Wire or Wooden Bin
Constructed from hardware cloth, pallets, or lumber, these contain the pile while allowing airflow.
Best for: Home gardeners wanting structure without expense.
Pros: Affordable, good airflow.
Cons: May require periodic maintenance.
Commercial Compost Bin
Plastic or metal bins with lids are widely available.
Best for: Suburban gardens or HOA-restricted areas.
Pros: Contained, pest-resistant, neat appearance.
Cons: Limited capacity.
Tumbling Composters
Enclosed barrels mounted on a frame that rotate.
Best for: Faster composting in small spaces.
Pros: Easy turning, accelerates breakdown.
Cons: Smaller batches; may dry out quickly.
Vermicomposting Bins
Indoor bins using red wiggler worms to process food scraps.
Best for: Apartment dwellers or winter composting.
Pros: Compact, produces high-quality castings.
Cons: Requires careful management of moisture and feeding.

No matter which receptacle you choose, place it in a well-drained area with partial shade and convenient access from the kitchen.

Building Your Compost Pile
Start with a coarse base layer—such as twigs or straw—to promote airflow. Then alternate layers of browns and greens. Chop or shred materials when possible; smaller pieces break down faster. Each time you add kitchen scraps, cover them with browns to reduce odor and deter pests. Avoid adding large clumps of wet grass, which can compact and create anaerobic conditions. A compost pile works best when it reaches at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet, which allows it to retain heat and break down efficiently.

Maintaining a Compost Pile: Turning
Turn your pile every 1–2 weeks using a garden fork. This introduces oxygen, redistributes moisture, and speeds decomposition. If you prefer a slower, low-maintenance approach, you can turn less frequently—but expect longer processing times.

Monitoring Moisture
The pile should feel damp but not soggy. Too dry? Add water while turning. Too wet? Mix in dry browns like shredded leaves or cardboard.

Temperature
Active compost piles heat up to 130–160°F (54–71°C). This heat kills many weed seeds and pathogens. While you don’t need a thermometer, a warm center indicates healthy microbial activity.

Troubleshooting
Bad smell: Too many greens or poor airflow. Add browns and turn.
Pile not heating: Too small, too dry, or lacking nitrogen. Add greens and moisture.
Attracting pests: Avoid meat and dairy; always cover food scraps with browns.

What Not to Compost
Certain materials can cause odor, attract pests, or introduce disease. Avoid adding:

Meat, fish, bones
Dairy products
Oily or greasy foods
Pet waste (especially from carnivores)
Diseased plants
Weeds with mature seeds
Treated wood or glossy paper
Coal or charcoal ash

Some items—like citrus peels, onion skins, and pine needles—can be composted in moderation but may slow the process if added excessively.

Composting Tips for Success
Chop materials: Smaller pieces break down faster.
Keep a kitchen container: A small countertop pail makes collecting scraps easy.

Layer thoughtfully: Always balance greens with browns.
Be patient: Composting is natural and takes time.
Keep learning: Observe how your pile responds to changes.

If you generate large volumes of leaves in autumn, store extra browns in bags to use throughout the year. This ensures you always have material to balance nitrogen-rich scraps.

When Is Compost Ready?
Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and smells like rich forest soil. You should not be able to recognize the original ingredients (aside from the occasional small twig). Depending on conditions, compost can be ready in: 2–3 months (hot, actively managed pile) 6–12 months (passive or cold composting).
To test readiness:

Visual Test: Uniform texture and color.
Smell Test: Earthy, not sour or ammonia-like.
Germination Test (Optional): Plant a few fast-growing seeds in compost. If they sprout well, it’s mature.

If some large pieces remain, sift the compost and return unfinished bits to the pile.

Using Your Compost
Spread 1–3 inches over garden beds and work it into the topsoil before planting. You can also:

Mix into potting soil (up to 25%)
Use as mulch around plants
Brew compost tea for liquid feeding

Regular compost application builds soil health year after year, reducing reliance on synthetic fertilizers.

Final Thoughts

Beginning composting may seem complex at first, but it quickly becomes second nature. With a balanced mix of greens and browns, adequate moisture, and occasional turning, you’ll create a steady supply of nutrient-rich compost.

More than just waste reduction, composting is an investment in your soil’s future. Every banana peel and fallen leaf becomes part of a regenerative cycle—feeding microbes, nourishing plants, and strengthening your garden from the ground up. Start small, stay consistent, and let nature do the rest. For more in-depth information on how to compost, download MSU Extension Publication 1782 “Composting for the Mississippi Gardener.”