{"id":18650,"date":"2014-11-11T17:27:08","date_gmt":"2014-11-11T22:27:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/?p=18650"},"modified":"2015-11-10T14:34:36","modified_gmt":"2015-11-10T19:34:36","slug":"the-cinnamon-wall","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/the-cinnamon-wall\/","title":{"rendered":"The Cinnamon Wall"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"JesseYancyColumnHeader\"<\/a>When it comes to Southern foods you\u2019ll find me a hide-bound traditionalist. Never can I envision myself breading fried chicken with whole wheat flour, using yellow corn meal for bread, or making banana pudding without vanilla wafers. <\/span><\/p>\n

Some might find my inflexibility evidence of bigotry and xenophobia, but I\u2019ll squelch that rumor right now; my kitchen is a global nexus when it comes to ingredients as well as recipes. <\/span><\/p>\n

As a matter of fact, I do have yellow corn meal on hand for polenta as well as garbanzo beans and tahini for hummus, three types of tortillas and four types of olives, not to mention dozens of other foods you won\u2019t find in most Southern kitchens (anchovies spring to mind). <\/span><\/p>\n

I even own a wok, and not one of those little sissy Teflon jobs you plug into the wall; mine is big and butch, seasoned well from over a decade of use.<\/span><\/p>\n

Most people feel the same way about their culinary heritage as I do. The foods we eat as children are those that comfort us, dishes that ease our minds and appease our palates. <\/span><\/p>\n

When we\u2019re grown-ups, these are the recipes we try to recreate, be it grandmother\u2019s pozole, the bread-and-butter pickles someone once brought over for Thanksgiving, or the adobo your Filipino neighbors shared with you after school. <\/span><\/p>\n

These dishes take care in their preparation, and people who want to share that memory with you offer with them a parcel of their past in a spirit of bonding. <\/span><\/p>\n

But the road to hell is paved with good intentions, and at one time or the other, you\u2019re going to find yourself faced with a host\u2019s cherished memory that makes you wish you\u2019d brought more wine; the house is beautiful, the children are sweet, you love them both, but that jalapeno tuna casserole just ain\u2019t a\u2019workin\u2019.<\/span><\/p>\n

It\u2019s all a matter of geography. I understand that. While my accommodation with exotic recipes goes a long way, I\u2019ll never feel entirely right using cinnamon in a savory dish.<\/span><\/p>\n

I\u2019ve been told time and time again that cinnamon makes a good match with meat is because it enhances the odor either cooking or cooked. Well, of course it does; cinnamon is distinctly aromatic as is clove, which I\u2019ll stud a ham with before baking as much for the tangy smell as the punctuation on the seared scored fat. <\/span><\/p>\n

But adding clove to a meat dish is just as inconceivable to me as adding cinnamon because clove is also associated with sweets on my palate. Since the vast majority of spices come from South-East Asia, they\u2019re widely used in savory dishes throughout the region, and well into India, the Middle East, and North Africa. <\/span><\/p>\n

But on the northern shores of the Mediterranean and beyond, using spices with meats and vegetables drops off considerably. You\u2019ll find notable examples of such recipes from Spain, Italy, and Greece, but in northwestern Europe and beyond the practice diminishes even further. <\/span><\/p>\n

As a man of western European ancestry, moreover a Southern American, I\u2019m simply unaccustomed to using spices (with the notable exception of peppers of every type) with meats.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yet God in His Wisdom has chosen me to share my life with people whose roots are from Asia Minor and the Levant, or near enough to hop, skip, or jump on it in the case of Jake, whose ancestors are from Crete. <\/span><\/p>\n

I\u2019ve heard these people argue over food (there\u2019s never a mere discussion), indisputable evidence of their passion for eating. Most times, I\u2019ll sit back and bite a knuckle, but I\u2019ll go to the Welty Library every now and then and look up an ashta recipe to throw in the ring just to liven things up, which it invariably does. <\/span><\/p>\n

Mind you, I\u2019m grateful for the connection. The eastern Mediterranean is a crossroads of the world, and to know people who love those cuisines is a gift, but their frequent inclusion of cinnamon in savory dishes is a cultural barrier that I have difficulty breaching.<\/span><\/p>\n

Still, I\u2019ve persisted in experimenting with the savory side of cinnamon, and I\u2019ve discovered it goes well with pork, which is certainly neither kosher nor halal when it comes to most Middle Eastern recipes. <\/span><\/p>\n

I probably find it agreeable with pork because pig is often seasoned with sugar in this part of the world (brown sugar finds its way into almost every aspect of barbecue), and my mind finds seasoning pork with cinnamon appropriate. <\/span><\/p>\n

Call it an outworking of culinary free association or flat-out call me crazy (I\u2019m used to it), but cinnamon with pork works for me. Here\u2019s my favorite of the few meat recipes with cinnamon in my repertoire.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pork Meatballs with Cinnamon<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"GEDSC<\/a>To one pound lean ground pork, add a teaspoon cinnamon, a half teaspoon of cayenne, and a tablespoon each of salt and black pepper. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Mix in one beaten egg, a heaping tablespoon of tomato paste, a half cup of bread crumbs, and a half cup of very finely chopped white onion. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Form into balls (I like big ones; be hush) and cook in a light oil (you can use olive oil, but it\u2019s not necessary) until firm. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Serve over rice (couscous is nice if you happen to have any) sprinkled with chopped parsley or chives (sesame seed is a nice touch). <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

These keep beautifully.<\/span> \"The<\/a>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When it comes to Southern foods you\u2019ll find me a hide-bound traditionalist. Never can I envision myself breading<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":242,"featured_media":18652,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68],"tags":[4647,2200,4648,8,1094,4649,4645,4650,1459,4646,4483],"class_list":["post-18650","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-local-food","tag-cinnamon","tag-cooking","tag-culinary-heritage","tag-food","tag-local","tag-meat","tag-meatballs","tag-pork","tag-recipes","tag-rice","tag-southern"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/CinnamonFEAT.jpg?fit=620%2C349&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18650","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/242"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=18650"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18650\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/18652"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=18650"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=18650"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=18650"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}