{"id":17121,"date":"2014-10-14T11:48:17","date_gmt":"2014-10-14T16:48:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/?p=17121"},"modified":"2015-11-12T18:50:07","modified_gmt":"2015-11-12T23:50:07","slug":"the-edible-south-a-review","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/the-edible-south-a-review\/","title":{"rendered":"The Edible South: A Review"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"JesseYancyColumnHeader\"<\/a>If you care about the culinary history of America, then The Edible South: The Power of Food and the Making of an American Region<\/em> by Marcie Ferris<\/strong> is a necessary addition to your library. The scope of this work, its scholarship, and its pervasive voice of authority provide a much-needed center of gravity for the study of Southern foodways as well as a panoramic portrait of the society and culture of the South through the lens of an essential element: food.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"edible<\/a>The quality of Ferris\u2019 scholarship is undeniable, but The Edible South<\/em> can in no way be described as bridging a gap between academic and popular writing. It is a thoroughly academic work, insightful of course, but calling it approachable is a stretch as well. This is not a book you pick up lightly and not without a solid grounding in American history, otherwise you will soon find yourself awash in a sea of dates and names, events and entities. In her introduction (following four pages of acknowledgements) Ferris states that The Edible South<\/em> is an examination of \u201cvisceral connections\u201d involving the \u201crealities of fulsomeness and deprivation\u201d and the \u201cresonance of history in food traditions,\u201d an \u201cevocative lens\u201d into the various aspects of Southern culture and society. The text is peppered with phrases such as \u201cculinary exceptionalism,\u201d \u201ccultural conversation,\u201d \u201chistorical interaction,\u201d \u201cJim Crow paternalism,\u201d and \u201cracial balkanization,\u201d thoroughly saturated with information (as well as footnotes) and for the most part unrelentingly didactic, an almost incessant record of racism and misogyny, poverty and oppression in one of the most fertile regions of the globe. The narrative is occasionally gruesome: the slaughter and cannibalization of a young pregnant bride at Jamestown; the torture of a slave by being suspended with a piece of pork fat over an open flame; and the rats, cats, and dogs prepared for the table during the siege of Vicksburg in addition to constant accounts of hunger, malnutrition, and want, evocative to be sure, but far more often of the darker aspects of the human condition.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"MarcieCohenFerris\"<\/a>Ferris is vigorous and precise, as befits a writer intending to inform if not to say instruct. While she professes a passion for food, this passion is rarely evident in her prose; instead, it shines forth in her scholarship, which as noted is astoundingly thorough. The key word here is information, and The Edible South<\/em> is informative on almost every level, but this is a social history (as opposed to political or economic history), focusing on the experiences of everyday people, resulting in \u201ca \u2018History from the Bottom Up\u2019 that ultimately engulfed traditional history and, somehow, helped to make a Better World\u201d (Paul E. Johnson). The emphasis is on race relations, gender issues, inequality, education, work, and leisure, mobility, social movements, and the character and condition of the working class. This is to say that food is a raison<\/em> for her larger agenda, which is an examination of the social history of the South itself. While Ferris says that her approach is not encyclopedic, the result is undeniably, mind-bogglingly comprehensive. The bibliography is exhaustive, beginning with three and a half pages of primary source materials from archival collections in fifteen cities spanning fourteen states (including Michigan, Massachusetts, Ohio, and the District of Columbia), followed by forty pages of secondary sources. Somewhat surprisingly, Ferris mentions Zora Neale Hurston only in connection with the reproduction of her folk tale \u201cDiddy Wah Diddy\u201d (1938) in Mark Kurlansky\u2019s excellent work, The Food of a Younger Land<\/em> (2010), disregarding her longer non-fiction works. I should hope to find some agreement by noting the glaring omission of Wilbur Cash\u2019s The Mind of the South<\/em> (1929).<\/span><\/p>\n

While not genre-defining\u2014John Egerton\u2019s Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History<\/em> (1987) defined the genre\u2014The Edible South<\/em> is authoritative and comprehensive, an indispensable reference.<\/span><\/p>\n

The academic institutionalization of Southern food is if nothing else thorough. Southern foodways studies have kept university presses rolling in recent years: Andrew Haley, an assistant professor of American cultural history at the University of Southern Mississippi, was awarded the 2012 James Beard Award in the Reference and Scholarship category for Turning the Tables: Restaurants and the Rise of the American Middle Class, 1880\u20131920<\/em>, another product of the University of North Carolina Press; this past October, the University of Georgia Press issued The Larder: Food Studies Methods from the American South<\/em>, edited by John T. Edge, Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt and Ted Ownby; and this August the University Press of Mississippi released Writing in the Kitchen: Essays on Southern Literature and Foodways<\/em> edited by David A. Davis and Tara Powell with a forward by Jessica B. Harris.<\/span><\/p>\n

Given the narrow scope of this field, overgrazing seems imminent; one could get the impression that this glut of scholarship is evidence that the academic maxim of \u201cpublish or perish\u201d is still solidly in place. While these works are undoubtedly conceived for those who are deeply interested in the culinary history of our nation, the general popularity of such publications must be called into question. That being said, The Edible South <\/em>has been included among the Southern Independent Booksellers Association\u2019s 2014 Summer Okra Picks, along with Chris Chamberlain\u2019s The Southern Foodie\u2019s Guide to the Pig: A Culinary Tour of the South\u2019s Best Restaurants & the Recipes That Made Them Famous<\/em>, Beautiful at All Seasons: Southern Gardening and Beyond with Elizabeth Lawrence<\/em> (by Elizabeth Lawrence) and Somewhere Safe with Somebody Good: The New Mitford Novel<\/em> by Jan Karon. Other recommendations are sure to follow.<\/span><\/p>\n

After reading The Edible South<\/em>, some are likely to be left with the bitter aftertaste of an eviscerated region in an age of information. The apartness of the South is what brought about its distinctive culture, but the old demonic genius loci of Dixie has been exorcised by a new orthodoxy embracing secular capitalization and academic hermeneutics, where icons are relics and texts are subjected to a democratized version of the Scholastic method. A bell jar has descended, but life goes on, people will be people, and while by academic standards Southern culture has become a global phenomenon, for better or worse it remains rooted south of the Mason-Dixon Line, where a pork chop is still more often than not just a pork chop.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

 <\/p>\n

Editor\u2019s Note:<\/strong><\/span> Author Marcie Cohen Ferris will be at The Lyric Theatre in Oxford on Thursday, October 23, reading from The Edible South<\/em> on the Thacker Mountain Radio<\/em><\/a> program; that night\u2019s show is part of the 17th annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium<\/a>. The Edible South<\/em> is available in Oxford at Square Books<\/strong>; visit the main store location or this page<\/span><\/strong><\/a> at squarebooks.com<\/strong><\/a> to get your copy.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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