{"id":16669,"date":"2014-09-30T15:25:51","date_gmt":"2014-09-30T20:25:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/?p=16669"},"modified":"2014-10-02T16:00:56","modified_gmt":"2014-10-02T21:00:56","slug":"pimento-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thelocalvoice.net\/oxford\/pimento-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"“Pimento Cheese”"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"JesseYancyColumnHeader\"<\/a>Robert Moss<\/strong>, who is from that most eccentric of Southern cities Charleston, South Carolina, describes himself as a culinary historian, a member of a geeky gaggle of food writers where I am a mere gosling.<\/span><\/p>\n

In\u00a0Going Lardcore: Adventures in New Southern Dining<\/em>, Moss delves into stories of Low Country dishes such as shrimp and grits and she-crab soup as well as elements of our broader Southern cuisine like bourbon, fried green tomatoes, and pimento cheese. It\u2019s with these subjects that he becomes troublesome, claiming rum is more Southern than bourbon, that fried green tomatoes are a Yankee invention, and that pimento cheese originated in upstate New York.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"GEDSC<\/a>It\u2019s this pimento and cheese issue I\u2019m all over like a duck on a June bug, but before going any further, let\u2019s turn to this matter of spelling, since I\u2019m acutely aware that any article in Mississippi is going to be scratched over and henpecked by a contentious flock of literati. Yes, I am quite aware that the it\u2019s the\u00a0pimiento<\/em>\u00a0pepper, but in his article \u201cCreating a New Southern Icon: The Curious History of Pimento Cheese,\u201d Moss notes that \u201cIn the late 1890s, imported Spanish sweet peppers started being canned and sold by large food manufacturers, which not only boosted their popularity but also introduced the Spanish name pimiento. Soon the \u2018i\u2019 was dropped from common usage, and by the turn of the century most print accounts of the peppers call them \u2018pimentos\u2019.\u201d I\u2019ll remind you that Moss has a PhD. (in English, no less) from Furman, and though I\u2019m not known for my slavish allegiance to academics, like the rest of you I always heartily concur with eggheads when they\u2019re in my corner. It looks so good on paper.<\/span><\/p>\n

Moss does not create another idol in this article; instead he reveals himself as an iconoclast of the first order by exposing the Yankee roots of a Southern dish Boston-based food writer Judy Gelman<\/strong> claims is \u201cheld sacred by Southerners\u201d, and his research seems brutally thorough. However, as a former graduate student of the English department at the University of Mississippi, I\u2019m delighted to say I have discovered a thin spot in Dr. Moss\u2019 exposition. Even more appropriately, this modest and assuredly well-intentioned debunk comes via Martha Foose<\/strong>, the final court of authority on Mississippi food and a resident of Oxford for many years. Whereas Moss maintains that pimento and cheese is unknown outside of Dixie, Martha, in her splendid\u00a0Screen Doors and Sweet Tea<\/em>, points out that the pimento cheese capitol of the Midwest is Zingerman\u2019s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Evangelism is clearly in play.<\/span><\/p>\n

What made pimento and cheese characteristically Southern is the use of cheddar. In the rural South of the early 20th\u00a0century the most commonly found cheese was mild cheddar called hoop cheese because it was sold commercially in large round wheels, red rind cheese because of the color of the wax coating or even rat cheese because it was often used to bait rodent traps. In memory lives the vivid image of a red hoop of cheddar sitting on the counter of a small country store under a wrap of wax paper ready to be sliced and eaten with saltines and a hunk of baloney or a can of Viennas. Without a doubt it was this cheese that was most often grated and used with homemade mayonnaise in making pimento and cheese in country and small-town kitchens throughout the South.<\/span><\/p>\n

Still and all, Moss makes a valid point; if foods we consider Southern are anathematized by Yankee roots, then our idolized pimento cheese has feet of clay. We just found out how to do it right and made it ours. But how is it that we\u2019ve come to make a cult of cornbread, a fetish of fried chicken, and an idol of black-eyed peas, all adorned with the trappings of media devotion and academic Sunday schools? Let\u2019s please move beyond the iconography of food (barbecue is just short of having a clergy) and come to realize that any significant foodstuff is nothing more than a pleasing combination of tastes and textures. And sure, let\u2019s have food festivals; of course you wouldn\u2019t expect to find a shrimp festival in Omaha or one for mountain oysters in Key West (though something tells me I could be wrong about that) but let\u2019s come to know them for what they are, celebrations of community, people, and locale.<\/span><\/p>\n

As to pimento and cheese itself, I\u2019m not going to be so crass as to give you a recipe. You do it the way you like it; God knows you\u2019re going to anyway. Pimento cheese should be devoid of controversy. It\u2019s not, of course, because everyone thinks their version is the best, but you\u2019re the one making it, so relax. Though Moss claims that recipes with cream cheese are \u201cdefinitely in the minority,\u201d I always add it to mine, mixing it with the mayo one to two. I also belong to a schismatic if not to say heretical sect who find a chopped fresh sweet red bell just as acceptable in pimento cheese as canned pimientos, and have no problem adding chopped green onions, though I once had a matron from Tupelo to give me a good finger-wagging over that. I also use Blue Plate mayonnaise; you Hellman\u2019s people can just stuff it.\u00a0\"The<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

–<\/span>
\nThis article was originally printed in The Local Voice #212 (published September 11, 2014).<\/span>
\nTo download the PDF of this issue, click here<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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