Liz Barrett and Tracy Morin are writers living in Oxford, Mississippi.
Known around town as the "Two Taste Buds", they write a restaurant review column in each issue of The Local Voice.

This column is dedicated to exploring the eating options available to vegetarians and meat lovers alike in Oxford and the surrounding area.

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Tracy the vegetarian

City Grocery bills itself as the “finest dining on the Oxford Square,” and in my book it takes more than double-digit entree prices and white tablecloths to truly earn a “fine dining” designation. Fine dining also requires an acute attention to personalized service, creativity in the kitchen, and a flair for the unique as well as the traditional.

City Grocery seems to exhibit all of these characteristics. Liz and I stopped by for a leisurely lunch (much easier on the wallet than dinner!), and I immediately took a liking to the unobtrusive jazz music, paintings by Megan Kingery, and our relaxed yet attentive waiter. I’d never tasted the Rudy Wiest Riesling on the wine list, and it was a great choice—light, fruity and mellow, and a bargain at $4.50 per glass (wines are available here at all price points, from just-lost-my-job to big-night-out).

After much deliberation over the menu (most selections are meat-based), I asked the waiter for a vegetarian-friendly recommendation. He said that the duck dish, sans duck, is popular, so I ordered that. The soup du jour, a ginger-pumpkin creation, was also vegetarian and made a fine starter: thick, rich and perfectly comforting on a chilly fall day. I was further impressed when the waiter emerged to ask if mushrooms were okay to add to my pasta dish—they were not listed on the menu description but were apparently logical to add in place of duck because of their meaty consistency and substance. I know plenty of vegetarians who can’t stand mushrooms, and I appreciated being asked about my preferences (I okayed them). When it arrived, the penne with asparagus, smoked corn and shallots in a cream sauce boasted pleasingly complex flavors; the pasta was cooked on the tender side; and the lunch was a bit heavy, but reasonably well-done. Ultimately, though, I probably wouldn’t order this one again; it didn’t thrill in the way a fantastic dish does. (As a side note, I was also charged the same price as if I’d had the duck, which is acceptable, but I’d have appreciated paying a couple of dollars less for this cheaper-to-assemble vegetarian version.)

Come dessert, there was only one option (cheesecake, which doesn’t appeal to me), so City Grocery definitely needs to work on expanding within that category. And how about creating a specialty drink list? An upscale establishment should offer classic cocktails as well as signature drinks that can be found only there; this helps a restaurant stand out, which is especially important considering the glut of “fine dining” that has recently flooded Oxford.

Overall, my favorite part of dining at City Grocery was the willingness of the staff to accommodate special needs; in my opinion, that eagerness to please—without making the guest feel like a burden—is worth a few extra dollars anytime.

Liz the meat eater

I’m not really sure what took me so long to venture into City Grocery for a meal. I may have initially been put off by some of the prices or the seafood-heavy dinner menu. Nonetheless, my recent trip had me wishing I hadn’t waited so long. The prices really aren’t that unreasonable if you go for a lunchtime sandwich, and there are additions to the new fall dinner menu for those who may not be in the mood for fish.

The first thing that I noticed about City Grocery was its atmosphere. When you walk in, you’re greeted by hardwood floors and ceilings; brick walls lined with sublime paintings, all commissioned by the same Oxford artist; and full-length banquettes inviting you to come in and sit a spell.

The music selection had a definite New Orleans flair, matching the decor—and menu—perfectly. The co-owner grew up in New Orleans and, while the menu offers a selection of dishes from several regions, you can certainly taste the Creole influence in many of them.

The delicate cornbread muffins, delivered to the table like little presents in a white cloth napkin, had a subtle kick, and were moist enough to enjoy without butter. The wonderfully hearty sweet potato soup that started my meal was chock-full of andouille sausage and plenty of vegetables. It could easily serve as a light lunch along with the cornbread muffins but, as you can probably guess, I didn’t take that route.

For my main meal, I had to try what the restaurant is known for—shrimp and grits. Let me tell you, those were some cheesy grits! Again, that Louisiana-style kick was present, but not overwhelming, and the addition of mushrooms and green onions to the fresh and tasty shrimp was a nice combination. (The only thing that didn’t sit well with me was the amount of oil left at the bottom of my dish with this entree—otherwise, delicious.)

When dessert time rolled around, I was a bit taken aback. We were in this wonderful restaurant that takes great measures to have an expansive, inventive entree menu that changes seasonally and, yet, when it came to dessert, they offered only two choices—one of which they were out of. Regardless, we ordered the chocolate cheesecake, to at least sample one of their desserts (very good, by the way), but I’d really enjoy seeing a larger dessert offering in the future.

Ultimately, I’m glad I finally made my way into City Grocery. Now I can look forward to indulging in more of its changing menu items, and hopefully a couple other desserts as well.

This column is dedicated to exploring the eating options available to vegetarians and meat lovers alike in Oxford and the surrounding area. If you have a favorite eating spot you’d like us to check out, send us an e-mail at twotastebuds@thelocalvoice.net.